Join me on a nostalgic journey through Amiens, the Little Venice of the North. Explore its iconic Cathedral, wander Saint-Leu's quaint streets, and relax in the tranquil Hortillonnages. Let's uncover the city's charm together!
Discovering a new city is always exciting, but exploring the city where you grew up is a different kind of adventure! Hello fellow travelers, Thomas writing here, and as you may have read in other posts, I'm from the North of France, more specifically, the cute city of Amiens, the capital of Picardie. I've been meaning to write about my hometown for a while now! After all, Amiens was my home for a long time, and it has witnessed my growth, as much as I have witnessed its evolution over the years.
So, let me take you on a journey to discover the most emblematic places in Amiens during a day trip. Our itinerary will include visiting the famous Cathedral of Amiens, wandering around the picturesque district of Saint-Leu, and ending the day with a visit to the tranquil Hortillonnages. This list is far from exhaustive, but it will provide you with a glimpse of my hometown's beauty. Are you ready to explore Amiens with me? Let's go!
IN THIS GUIDE
1. General information
2. History
3. Getting there
4. Cathedral of Amiens
5. Saint-Leu & Quai Bélu
6. Hortillonages
7. Other places to visit
8. Eating there
9. Final thoughts
GENERAL INFORMATION
Amiens, my hometown, holds a special place in my heart. Located in northern France, this city has a unique charm that can be easy to miss! With its lovely canals and friendly atmosphere, Amiens may not be the most famous city in France, but it offers a cozy feeling and a rich history that make it worth visiting.
When you explore Amiens, there are three main places you won’t want to miss: the stunning Cathedral of Notre-Dame d'Amiens, the lively Saint-Leu district and the peaceful Hortillonnages. The Cathedral is a great example of Gothic architecture and truly impressive to see. The Saint-Leu district is full of life, especially on Saturdays when the market comes to life with fresh food and local goods. The Hortillonnages, on the other hand, are floating gardens where you can relax and enjoy nature, making it a nice getaway from the city buzz.
But Amiens has much more to offer beyond these three highlights! Among others, the Museum of Picardie is a great place to learn about local art and history, while the House of Jules Verne lets you explore the life of the famous author who lived here. Both of these spots show another side of Amiens and are worth checking out during your visit. As you will see, there’s plenty to discover in this charming city!
HISTORY
Let's take a step back in time and discover the rich history of Amiens. The city's story begins in the Palaeolithic era, around 500,000 years ago, as evidenced by archaeological remains. In pre-Roman times, it was known as "Samarobriva", which translates to "Bridge over the Somme river". The Romans recognized its strategic location and built roads connecting Amiens to other parts of their empire, leading to its growth as a center for trade and Romanization.
Fast forward to the 9th century, when Bishop Saint-Firmin christianized the region. Unfortunately, Amiens was plundered twice by the Normans in the following centuries. But the city's fortunes changed when King Louis VI of France recognised its importance in 1113 and annexed it to the French Crown in 1185.
However, Amiens was not immune to further occupations, including a deceptive attack by Spanish soldiers disguised as peasants who tricked the starving inhabitants to take over the city in 1597. But after a six-month siege, the French finally regained control under Henri IV. Despite the challenges faced by Amiens throughout history, the city has managed to preserve its rich heritage and culture, making it a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts.
During the 18th century's Industrial Revolution, Amiens experienced a prolonged period of peace, leading to its economic growth in the velvet textile industry. The city council initiated major urban planning projects, gradually demolishing the city walls to create broad boulevards around the city center. The railway was also quickly developed, with the first line linking Amiens to Paris built in 1846.
The 20th century cast a dark shadow over Amiens' history, bringing some of its bleakest times. In 1914, with its strategic location to protect Paris, Amiens suffered greatly during WWI. The city bore witness to the bloodiest confrontation of the Great War during the Battle of the Somme in 1916, resulting in 1.2 million casualties. In March 1918, intense bombardments destroyed significant parts of the city, causing its inhabitants to evacuate. Despite efforts to reconstruct the city center, which was already severely damaged during WWI, WWII brought further destruction to Amiens. In 1940, the Germans invaded the city, and even though French and British units put up a fight, the German troops broke through their defenses. The Wehrmacht continued its march towards Paris, and Amiens fell. The British army liberated the city on August 31, 1944, but Amiens had sustained massive damage, with 60% of its buildings destroyed.
GETTING THERE
Amiens, the capital of Picardie, is situated in the Somme department of the Hauts-de-France region, formerly known as Picardie. Conveniently located midway between Paris and Lille, the city is easily accessible through various transportation modes:
- By train: With more than 20 daily return trips, traveling to Amiens by train is both frequent and convenient. From Paris, it takes around 1 hour, while the journey from Lille is approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes.
- By car: Amiens is easily reachable by car, with travel times of about 1 hour and 30 minutes from Paris, 1 hour and 40 minutes from Lille, 2 hours from Reims, and 1 hour and 30 minutes from Rouen.
With its strategic location, Amiens serves as a central hub connecting various cities. Whether you're arriving from Paris, Lille, or beyond, the city offers a peaceful retreat from the bustling big cities, inviting visitors to spend a relaxing day in the heart of Picardie.
BEST 3 THINGS TO DO
1. CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE-DAME D'AMIENS
When visiting Amiens, the Cathedral Notre-Dame d'Amiens is an absolute must-see! This iconic structure is a true masterpiece of architecture, standing out with its stunning façade filled with intricate sculptures and statues. While some might compare it to Notre-Dame de Paris, the Cathedral of Amiens is remarkable in its own right. As the largest cathedral in France, it towers 42.3 meters high and stretches 145 meters in length, with an impressive interior volume of 200,000 cubic meters—enough to fit two Notre-Dame de Paris cathedrals inside!
Construction of the cathedral began in 1220 under Bishop Evrard de Fouilloy, and it was completed around 1290. This incredible achievement highlights the skill and dedication of its builders, especially considering that previous structures on this site had been destroyed by fire and disaster. Despite facing challenges throughout history, including the French Revolution and both World Wars, the Cathedral of Amiens has remained remarkably intact. It now stands as a symbol of resilience for the people of Amiens and a stunning example of Gothic architecture, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1981.
| Opening hours |
daily from 8.30 a.m. to 5.15 p.m.
| Admission |
free of charge (guided tour: 6 EUR)
| For more information about Amiens Cathedral, check our post here |
2. SAINT-LEU & QUAI BÉLU
Located between the majestic Amiens Cathedral and the gentle waters of the Somme River, the Saint-Leu neighbourhood is one of the most picturesque areas of the city. Its narrow cobbled streets, colourful half-timbered houses, and lively atmosphere make it a must-visit destination for tourists and locals alike.
Saint-Leu's history dates back to the Middle Ages, when the district was built on the water's edge to house the city's many craftsmen and artists. Its location on the river allowed easy access to the mills that were crucial to the work of weavers, dyers, and tanners who flocked to the area. Today, Saint-Leu remains a hub of artistic activity, with many galleries and studios showcasing the works of local artists.
In the mid-twentieth century, the neighbourhood began to suffer from neglect, but the town council's decision to establish universities in the area breathed new life into Saint-Leu. This move attracted a young and dynamic population, and the neighbourhood regained its charm and vitality. In the 1990s, a comprehensive revitalization plan was put in place, including the demolition of some old buildings and the creation of new public spaces such as Quai Bélu, a lively riverside promenade lined with restaurants, bars, and theaters. Today, Saint-Leu is a vibrant and cosmopolitan neighbourhood that showcases the best of Amiens' cultural and architectural heritage.
3. HORTILLONNAGES
As mentioned earlier, while Amiens is well-known for having the largest Cathedral in France, it is the Hortillonnages that truly make the city stand out! Often referred to as the "green lungs" of Amiens, the Hortillonnages are located just a few steps away from the old town, yet offer a tranquil and peaceful environment that is surprising to find so close to the bustling city center.
Let's now dive into the history of the Hortillonnages! These lush wetlands and tiny islands on the Somme river were already a prime location for Roman vegetable cultivation. Back then, the Hortillonnages sprawled beyond their current boundaries, covering a whopping 10,000 hectares. But over time, their size dwindled. By 1900, they had shrunk to a mere 500 hectares, and today, they span 300 hectares. Despite this dramatic decrease in size, the Hortillonnages have thankfully managed to avoid being wiped off the map entirely!
Exploring the Hortillonnages by foot may seem tempting, but trust me, the only way to truly experience these enchanting floating gardens is by hopping aboard one of the iconic "barques à cornets" (horn-shaped boats). These traditional boats are equipped with eco-friendly electric motors that won't harm the local flora and fauna. During your 45-minute journey, a knowledgeable boatman will steer you through the intricate network of canals, regaling you with fascinating stories about the history of this place.
The Hortillonnages offer a diverse landscape that can transport you to a magical forest with soaring trees and birdsong, or to an open garden adorned with breathtaking wildflowers and perfectly manicured lawns. Along the way, you'll come across charming cottages and huts that have been passed down from one generation to the next, adding to the area's rustic charm.
| Opening hours |
daily from 9 a.m. to 12. p.m.
and from 1.30 p.m. to 6 p.m.
(from April 1 to October 31)
| Admission - 5.90 EUR |
OTHER PLACES TO VISIT
Amiens is a city rich in history and culture, and while the Cathedral, Saint-Leu, and the Hortillonnages are certainly the highlights, there’s much more to discover. If you have a little extra time, here are two more must-see spots that will give you a deeper glimpse into the city's heritage and artistic spirit.
MUSEUM OF PICARDIE
The Museum of Picardie, or Musée de Picardie, is a fantastic place to explore both art and history, and it is one of the top museums in the region. Located in a stunning old building, the museum takes you on a journey through time, from ancient history to modern art. Inside, you'll see everything from ancient Greek and Roman objects to paintings by famous European artists like El Greco and Corot. It's a place where history feels alive, and every room tells a different story. Whether you're passionate about art or just interested in learning more about the history of Picardie, this museum is sure to impress. Plus, it's a great place to visit if the weather isn't the best!
| Opening hours |
Tues. to Fri. from 9.30 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Sat. & Sun. from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
| Admission |
9 EUR (or combined ticket with House of Jules Verne: 16 EUR)
HOUSE OF JULES VERNE
If you're a fan of literature, you cannot miss the House of Jules Verne. The legendary author of Around the World in Eighty Days and Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea lived in Amiens for more than 18 years. Today, his house has been transformed into a museum where visitors can enter the creative world of one of France's greatest writers. A tour of the rooms where Verne lived and worked will give you an insight into his vivid imagination, as well as his daily life. From his collection of curiosities to his office full of books and manuscripts, the house is a time capsule of 19th-century innovation and literary genius. For fans of science fiction and adventure, this visit is a dream come true!
| Opening hours |
from 10 a.m. to 12.30 a.m. & 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. (closed on Tuesdays)
| Admission |
9 EUR (or combined ticket with House of Jules Verne: 16 EUR)
EATING THERE
Experience the culinary scene of Amiens with our comprehensive guide to dining options in the city. Whether you're craving traditional French cuisine, international flavors, or sweet treats, there's something to satisfy every palate.
Cafés and Lunch Spots:
- Robin Room: Immerse yourself in the trendy ambiance of Robin Room and indulge in innovative culinary creations. Prices vary, typically ranging from 15 to 25 EUR per dish, ensuring a delightful dining experience that tantalizes the senses.
- Snack El Balad: Snack El Balad: Immerse yourself in the vibrant flavors of Lebanon at Snack El Balad, where you can indulge in mouthwatering takeaways starting at around 5 EUR. Don't miss their irresistible garlic fries, a true culinary delight!
- Carte Blanche: Enjoy a fulfilling lunch experience at this solidarity restaurant, where you can savor delicious meals while contributing to a worthy cause. Main courses are priced between 10 and 20 EUR, making it an ideal spot for a midday meal with purpose.
- Pho du Dragon: Embark on a culinary journey to Asia with a visit to Pho du Dragon, where you can indulge in flavorful dishes like ramen. Main courses are priced between 10 and 15 EUR.
Drink Spots:
- Café Pinson: Savor a delightful fusion of flavors at Café Pinson, where a diverse menu of homemade treats awaits. Enjoy a selection of charcuterie and mixed platters, perfectly complemented by a curated beverage menu featuring an array of wines, beers, etc.
- Green Corner: Indulge in homemade delights, including savory hummus, cheese platters, and Maroilles cheese-infused pork terrine. Complement your meal with freshly squeezed juices, classic cocktails, or fine wines for a truly satisfying experience.
Dining Experience:
- Chez Rosa: Indulge in the authentic flavors of Italy at Chez Rosa, known for its mouthwatering pizzas. Prices for pizzas typically range from 10 to 20 EUR, depending on toppings.
- La Manufacture: This cozy brasserie offers a menu of traditional regional dishes, such as the famous Welsh specialty. Expect to pay between 15 to 25 EUR for a main course.
- Le Ch'ti Charivari: Dive into alpine-inspired comfort food at this charming restaurant, where hearty dishes like raclette and fondue reign supreme. Prices range from 20 to 30 EUR per person.
Bakeries and Treats:
- Jean Trogneux: Treat yourself to the iconic French macarons from Jean Trogneux, a beloved patisserie made of almond, sugar, egg, and honey-based recipe, deeply rooted in the culinary heritage of the Hauts-de-France region. Prices start at 1.50 EUR per macaron, allowing you to savor the rich history and flavors of the region's celebrated delicacy.
- Les spécialités de Quesnoy-le-Montant / Maison Fréville: Discover the authentic flavors of the region at Maison Fréville in Quesnoy-le-Montant, and don't miss the opportunity to try the Gateau Battu, a traditional delicacy beloved by locals and visitors alike.
With its diverse array of dining options, Amiens invites you to embark on a culinary adventure that promises to tantalize your taste buds and leave you craving more.
FINAL THOUGHTS
In short, Amiens is a city that is often overlooked, but it truly has a remarkable and rich history. Although this post has covered just three main attractions, there is so much more to see and explore! Make sure to check out our post on the Notre-Dame d'Amiens Cathedral (check it here) and don't forget to visit other noteworthy spots such as the Museum of Picardie and the House of Jules Verne.
Let's hear from you! Have you had the chance to explore Amiens and uncover its hidden gems? Share your tips, experiences and thoughts with us in the comments section below. We can't wait to hear from you!