Discover the enchanting allure of Saint-Malo on a delightful day trip near Mont Saint-Michel. Explore its historic walls, sandy beaches, and maritime heritage. Join us for a memorable journey through this coastal gem.
During the All Saints’ Day long weekend, we set off to admire Mont-Saint Michel's stunning architecture (check out our post here). A five-hour drive from Thomas' parents' home meant staying overnight in nearby Pontorson. This detour led us to discover the charming town of Saint-Malo, recommended by Thomas' parents. Nestled in Brittany, France, Saint-Malo is a historic fully-walled port city evoking the thrilling era of corsairs and privateers.
Walking through the fully-walled old town with its cobbled streets and historical buildings, we felt transported to another time! Saint-Malo beautifully represents its colorful history, exuding the energy of its former corsairs and privateers. While Saint-Malo wasn't initially on our itinerary, we're grateful we stumbled upon it. Join us as we delve deeper into this charming coastal gem in our blog post, offering tips and recommendations to help you plan a perfect day in Saint-Malo!
IN THIS GUIDE
1. History
2. Walk itinerary
3. Our final thoughts
4. Getting there
5. Staying there
6. Eating there
HISTORY
Founded in the 1st century BC by Gaulish tribes, Saint-Malo's origins trace back to its strategic location along the Brittany coast. Initially known as the Roman Reginca or Aletum, Saint-Malo evolved into a thriving port town renowned for its maritime prowess. During the Middle Ages, the city emerged as a hub of trade and commerce, attracting merchants and sailors from across Europe. Its strategic location made it a vital center for maritime trade, contributing to its prosperity and growth.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, Saint-Malo reached the pinnacle of its power and influence. The city became synonymous with piracy and privateering, with its skilled sailors and corsairs terrorizing the high seas and plundering enemy vessels. Notable figures such as Robert Surcouf gained fame and fortune through their daring exploits, solidifying Saint-Malo's reputation as a formidable maritime power. The city's golden age continued into the 19th century, marked by continued economic prosperity and cultural flourishing.
However, Saint-Malo's fortunes took a downturn with the advent of World War II. The city suffered extensive damage during the conflict, notably in the Allied bombing raids of 1944. Despite this devastation, Saint-Malo rose from the ashes through post-war restoration efforts, preserving its historic charm and ensuring its storied past remains vibrant today. This resilience is echoed in Anthony Doerr's novel "All the Light We Cannot See" and its subsequent series adaptation, which vividly portray the city's wartime experiences and enduring spirit.
Today, Saint-Malo stands as a testament to its resilient spirit and enduring legacy. Its ancient walls and fortifications bear witness to centuries of history, while its bustling port and vibrant cultural scene continue to captivate visitors from around the world. As Saint-Malo looks to the future, it remains deeply rooted in its past, a living testament to the enduring spirit of its inhabitants and the timeless allure of its storied history.
WALK ITINERARY
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PORTE DE DINAN
To start your adventure, we recommend beginning at Porte de Dinan and walking all the way to Porte Saint-Thomas, taking in the breathtaking views of the city's narrow streets and charming buildings as you go! The entire circuit offers sweeping views of the city and the turquoise waters surrounding it, providing a stunning backdrop for your explorations.
If you don't feel up to walking the entire length of the ramparts, don't worry there are plenty of spots along the way where you can climb up or down, allowing you to explore at your own pace. So why not lace up your walking shoes and head to the ramparts for an unforgettable view of this beautiful city?
BASTION DE LA HOLLANDE
Located just a short walk from the ramparts, the Bastion de la Hollande is a must-visit for history buffs. This imposing fortified tower was constructed in the late 17th century and was armed with a staggering 24 cannons. Its purpose? To defend Saint-Malo against potential attacks from the Dutch fleet, which gave the tower its name. But that's not all – the tower also housed a kennel of fierce bull dogs that were trained to defend the nearby Porte Saint Pierre. As you explore the tower, take a moment to imagine what it must have been like to defend the city from this strategic vantage point.
BIDOUANE TOWER
For the next stop on our walking tour, we suggest heading to the impressive Bidouane Tower. Standing tall at 23 meters, this tower was originally built in the 15th century and served as a gun-powder storage facility. But today, it offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the shimmering turquoise waters surrounding the city. From the top, you can also admire the stunning cityscape of Saint-Malo, with the magnificent Cathedral of Saint-Vincent majestically dominating the skyline. Trust us, this is a view you won't want to miss!
PLAGE DE L'ÉVENTAIL, PETIT BÉ, GRAND BÉ & FORT NATIONAL
Our next stop takes us to the charming Place Chateaubriand, where we suggest you make your way towards Porte Saint-Thomas and explore the picturesque Plage de l'Éventail, weather permitting. This small but delightful beach boasts stunning views of Petit Bé, Grand Bé, and Fort National, which are a few of the small fortified islands located just a stone's throw away. If the tide is low, you can even walk across to these islands, but do take heed of the warnings about rising tides to avoid getting stranded. On Grand Bé island, you'll find the tomb of the famous French writer François-René de Chateaubriand, who was a beloved local figure. In fact, the word "bé" in the local Celtic language means "tomb," making this island all the more significant.
PORTE SAINT-VINCENT
From this beach you can continue east until the first exit that will lead you to the Port Saint-Vincent and the Grand Place in front (where the Tourist Center is located). It is a very nice location offering a privileged view of this entrance and the Château where nowadays is located the Town Hall and the Museum of the city. In a nearby quay, there is a typical corsair frigate called l'Étoile du Roy that can be visited for a glimpse of the life of a privateer in his most loved home and also offers rides through the surrounding sea to visit the beautiful shore of Bretagne (or Brittany region). Then you can stroll around the cute littles streets in the intra muros and imagine all the privateers business and commerce that would happen during the prime time of Saint-Malo.
ENJOY LOCAL FOOD RUE JACQUES CARTIER
As you enter the heart of the city, get lost in the maze of charming narrow streets, and you'll find yourself wanting to snap a photo at every corner. Take a left turn into Rue Jacques Cartier, and you'll find a myriad of local restaurants offering authentic delicacies like moules-frites (mussels and fries) and crêpe Bretonne (Breton-style crepes). It's a perfect spot to take a break from walking and indulge in some delicious food while soaking up the ambiance of the city.
TASTE A DELICIOUS KOUIGN-AMANN
Now it's time for a food break! And we highly recommend trying the traditional Breton cake called Kouign-amann. This round cake is made up of layers of butter and sugar that are folded and cooked until they caramelize, creating a rich and decadent treat. You can find Kouign-amann at several places in the city, but we tried a regular one at Le Gouverneur, located near the cathedral, and it was absolutely delicious! Be sure to try out the different variations available, such as Nutella or salty caramel, for a flavorful experience.
CATHEDRAL SAINT-VINCENT-DE-SARAGOSSE
After turning right, you can reach the impressive Cathedral Saint-Vincent-de-Saragosse de Saint-Malo, a stunning example of Roman and Gothic architectural styles. The cathedral has a rich history dating back to the 12th century. It was built between 1146 and 1174, during the reign of Bishop Jean de Chatillon. Throughout the centuries, the cathedral underwent several significant renovations and additions. In the 15th century, a new choir and transept were added, and in the 17th century, the nave was rebuilt in the Baroque style. During World War II, the cathedral was severely damaged by bombing, but it was later restored to its former glory. The cathedral's interior features several notable artworks and artifacts, including a 15th-century triptych and an 18th-century organ. It also houses the tomb of Jacques Cartier, a French explorer who discovered Canada and claimed it for France.
OUR FINAL THOUGHTS
Saint-Malo is a coastal treasure brimming with history, charm, and natural beauty. From its ancient walls to its sandy shores, every corner holds a story waiting to be discovered. As you bid farewell to this enchanting destination, remember to seize the opportunity to explore Mont-Saint-Michel, just a short distance away. Be sure to check out our blog post here on Mont-Saint-Michel to plan the ultimate day trip to this architectural masterpiece. With its proximity to Saint-Malo, it's an experience not to be missed!
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
Saint-Malo is easily accessible by various transportation modes, making it convenient for travelers to explore its historic streets and scenic coastline. Here's a guide on how to journey to Saint-Malo:
- By car: Driving to Saint-Malo offers flexibility and the opportunity to enjoy the picturesque landscapes of Brittany along the way. From Paris, take the A13 highway towards Rennes, then merge onto the N137 towards Saint-Malo. Follow signs for Saint-Malo, and upon arrival, park your vehicle in one of the designated parking areas conveniently located near the city center.
- By train: Saint-Malo is well-connected by train, with regular services operating from major cities like Paris, Rennes, and Nantes. TGV and TER trains provide comfortable and efficient travel options, offering scenic views of the coastline during the journey. Upon arrival at Saint-Malo's train station, it's just a short walk or taxi ride to reach the city center and begin exploring its attractions.
- By bus: Several bus companies offer services to Saint-Malo from nearby cities and towns. FlixBus, Ouibus, and regional bus companies provide affordable and convenient options for travelers seeking to reach Saint-Malo by bus. Buses typically drop passengers off at the Saint-Malo bus station, located within walking distance of the city center.
No matter which mode of transportation you choose, getting to Saint-Malo is the first step towards experiencing the charm and beauty of this coastal gem.
STAYING THERE
Saint-Malo offers a range of accommodation options to suit various tastes and budgets. Whether you prefer the charm of staying within the city walls or the tranquility of the surrounding areas, there's something for everyone. During our visit, we opted for a stay near Mont-Saint-Michel to witness the island's nighttime allure. We chose Le Grenier du Jardin in Pontorson, an inviting Airbnb that exceeded our expectations. The accommodation provided a cozy atmosphere, allowing us to unwind after exploring the region. Situated just a short drive away from Mont Saint-Michel, Pontorson offered convenience without the bustling tourist crowds. Our stay was delightful, with spacious and clean rooms. The delicious breakfast and friendly owner added to the charm of our experience.
EATING THERE
Exploring the culinary scene in Saint-Malo reveals a plethora of dining options to tantalize your taste buds. Within the walled city, you'll discover a diverse array of restaurants offering local cuisine and international flavors. Here are some must-visit dining spots to consider:
- Brasserie O' de mer: Specializing in moules frites (mussels and fries), Brasserie O' de Mer offers a delightful dining experience by the sea. Alongside their signature dish, you can also enjoy other seafood specialties and local Breton cuisine. Prices typically start from 15 EUR to 20 EUR per portion of moules frites, depending on the size and accompaniments.
- Bergamote: Experience the warmth of authentic Breton cuisine in a casual setting. Sample traditional dishes like savory galettes (buckwheat crepes) filled with a variety of ingredients, hearty Breton stews, and fresh seafood caught locally. Prices average around 15 EUR to 25 EUR per person for a main course, excluding drinks.
- Maison Galland, Kouign Amman de Saint-Malo, Le Gouverneur: Treat yourself to delicious Kouign-amman at these locations. This traditional Breton cake, with layers of butter and sugar caramelized to perfection, comes in various tempting flavors like Nutella and salty caramel. Prices for Kouign-amann usually range from 5 EUR to 10 EUR per serving, depending on the flavor.
With an abundance of dining options to choose from, Saint-Malo promises a culinary adventure filled with delicious flavors and memorable dining experiences. So, embark on a gastronomic journey and savor the best of Breton cuisine in this charming coastal city
Now we want to hear all about your impressions, thoughts, and tips for checking out Saint-Malo. Have you already visited this city? Drop your comments in the section below!
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