Leiden is a beautiful Dutch town just 30 minutes from Amsterdam. With its quiet canals, historic windmills, and rich culture, it’s a great place to experience everyday Dutch life in a relaxed setting.

As new residents of the Netherlands, we’ve been excited to explore this beautiful country beyond the well-known spots like Amsterdam. In our previous post about The Hague (which you can find here), we shared some of our experiences settling into Dutch life. Now, we’re turning our attention to Leiden — a city that has captured our hearts with its lively streets, rich culture, and warm, authentic atmosphere. Just a short half-hour journey from Amsterdam, Leiden offers a perfect blend of history and modern life, making it a favorite destination for both locals and visitors alike!

In this blog post, we’ll take you on a walk through Leiden’s lovely old town, sharing a clear plan that highlights the city’s best sights, hidden spots, and local culture. From beautiful art and architecture to the everyday life of its residents, this guide lets you experience what makes Leiden truly special. You can enjoy quiet streets, lively cafés, and charming canals — all at your own pace.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Leiden is a beautiful city located just a short and easy trip from The Hague, making it one of the most convenient destinations for us to visit. Its charming canals, traditional Flemish-style buildings, and iconic windmills create a peaceful and authentic Dutch atmosphere that feels a world away from busy tourist spots. Because of its close proximity, Leiden quickly became one of our favorite places to bring friends and family when they come to visit us. It offers the perfect mix of culture, history, and local life, all within a compact and walkable area.

Whenever we have guests, Leiden provides a wonderful way to introduce them to the true spirit of the Netherlands. Strolling along its scenic canals, exploring hidden corners of the old town, or relaxing in cozy cafés, we find that the city never fails to charm and surprise. This combination of beauty, history, and a welcoming atmosphere makes Leiden a memorable destination for anyone looking to experience Dutch culture beyond the usual hotspots.

HISTORY

The history of Leiden revolves around the building of what would become the Burcht van Leiden (Fort of Leiden). Starting as an artificial hill built on the confluence of two branches of the Rhine, this settlement evolved to be a shell keep which suffered different sieges that defined the history of the city and of the country itself. The most famous siege started in 1573 and lasted one year during the Dutch Independence War or the Eighty Years' War between Spain and the Seventeen Provinces of the Netherlands. Though ending successfully with the Dutch troops flooding the region to kick out the Spanish invaders, it brought a toll of thousands of deaths due to plagues and starvation. As a reward for its loyalty to the Orange royal family during the siege, King Willem I founded the University of Leiden, the first university in the Netherlands.

The 17th century was a prosperous period for Leiden mostly due to the booming textile industry but also due to the souring printing and publication industries. It became the second largest city during the Dutch Golden Era which attracted many artists whose works impacted the city history and turned it into the inspiration for landscape paintings. Although later on the city diminished in importance, Leiden has still a special place in the political, academic and cultural history of the Netherlands. 

PRACTICAL TIPS

The best time to visit Leiden is between April and October, when the weather is pleasant and the city is buzzing with activity. In spring, you’ll see the famous Dutch tulips in bloom, and the surrounding countryside comes to life with color. Summer is ideal for canal boat rides, open-air events, and terrace dining, while early autumn offers fewer tourists, soft light, and beautiful golden leaves along the canals.

Leiden makes for a perfect day trip from Amsterdam, as it’s only 30 minutes away by train. In a full day, you can walk along the canals, visit the Gothic Pieterskerk, see the Botanical Garden (Hortus Botanicus), and explore a museum or two. For a deeper experience, spend 2 to 3 days. This allows time to enjoy the Museum of Antiquities, Museum of the History of Science, take a bike ride through the surrounding countryside, or enjoy a relaxing meal by the water. You can also use Leiden as a base for trips to the beach at Katwijk, the Keukenhof gardens (in spring), or The Hague (check our post here).

Leiden’s city center is very walkable — most major sights are within a short distance of each other. It’s also very bike-friendly, with plenty of rental options near the train station and throughout the city. Cycling is one of the best ways to see more of Leiden and its scenic surroundings. There’s also a good local bus network for reaching nearby neighborhoods and attractions just outside the center. If you're arriving by car, keep in mind that much of the center is car-free, so parking outside the old town is recommended.

EXPLORING LEIDEN

The best way to travel in the Netherlands is definitely by train — you can even use the same card for both intercity trains and local public transport in cities across the country. Our journey begins at Leiden Central Station, known for its sleek, modern façade that makes a striking first impression.

You can’t visit the Netherlands without snapping a picture of a windmill, and in Leiden, De Valk offers a special chance to see inside one. Built in 1743, this iconic windmill stands 30 meters tall and is the only remaining windmill of the nineteen that once lined Leiden’s city walls. Unlike many other windmills that are just for show, De Valk is fully functional, and visitors can explore its inner workings to learn how it was used for milling grain. Touring De Valk gives you a unique glimpse into traditional Dutch craftsmanship and history, making it a must-see attraction for anyone wanting to experience an authentic piece of the country’s cultural heritage.

| Opening hours - from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

from Tuesday to Saturday |

| Admission - 5 EUR |

Back in the Middle Ages, when Leiden used to be surrounded by walls, it had eight access points. The Morspoort was the western access to the city and nowadays it is one of the two gates which lasted after more than 400 years of history. Although it was not the most pleasant way to enter Leiden since it was a place to display the bodies of hanged criminal, today it is a grandiose defensive monument with a patio for those looking for a refreshing pit-stop.

Heading South, across the Rembrandt bridge (a wooden drawbridge over the Galgewater canal), you can reach the Rembrandtplaats (Rembrandt's Square). Located next to the place where this famous Leiden citizen was born in 1606, it was created to celebrate the 400th birthday of the acclaimed painter from the Dutch Golden Era. The exact house where Rembrandt was born and lived until 1631 has been demolished but there is a small plaque in a building on the eastern side of the square indicating where the house once stood.

One of Leiden’s most famous canals, the Galgewater, has a dark history reflected in its name — it was named after the gallows that once stood along its banks, where outlaws were executed centuries ago. Today, however, the canal’s grim past has been replaced by a lively and peaceful atmosphere. The Galgewater is now a popular spot for rowing training and leisurely boat rides, offering both locals and visitors a chance to enjoy the scenic waterways while taking in the city’s historic charm from a new perspective.

Built in the 13th century as part of the defensive moat system of Leiden, the Rapenburg evolved to be the most famous and fashionable canal in the city and maybe in the whole Netherlands. Flanked by imposing mansions, University buildings, museums and even the oldest botanical garden of the country, this enchanting canal was the address of rich merchants and famous faculty professors as well as Royal members during their studies' years.

The Pieterskwartier is one of the oldest and perhaps the most traditional neighborhood of Leiden. It started with buildings around the county chapel of the counts of Holland built in the XII century which evolved to be Pieterskerk, a late-Gothic church dedicated to Saint Peter. As a matter of fact, the symbol present in the coat of arms of Leiden, the two crossed keys, refers to St. Peter's keys to Heaven, the patron of the city's church. The historical narrow streets of the neighborhood were home for the Pilgrim Fathers who fled England for more stability in the Netherlands before leaving for settling in America.

The Langebrug is a street located in the Pieterskwartier of Leiden. It is Thomas' favorite street in the city as it is the perfect spot to photograph a typical Dutch street with traditional houses and a nice perspective. It used to be a canal, the Voldersgracht, named after the many volders (workmen who clean woven clothes) who used to work in this street at the time of the flourishing cloth industry of the city. At the beginning of the 17th century, these polluting activities were moved to the northern part of town.

The town hall of Leiden stands in the same place since the Middle Ages. In the late 16th century, after been besieged by Spain, the city government decided to give the building a new imposing facade in Renaissance style to show the city's new prosperous phase. However, in 1929 a huge fire destroyed most of the building which was reconstructed maintaining the old facade with what remained of it but building up a completely new brick edifice behind it. The Renaissance facade is lavishly decorated with statues and niches with motifs about the Siege and Relief of Leiden.

The Visfontein, or "Fountain of the Fish", dates back to 1693 and was originally built to provide clean water to fish sellers at the market, ensuring proper hygiene. Interestingly, the fountain only operated on market days, serving as a vital resource during those busy times. In 1996, archaeologists made an exciting discovery near the site: a water cellar and two reservoirs on the nearby castle hill. This finding revealed that the fountain’s water supply came directly from the castle, showcasing the clever engineering and infrastructure that supported Leiden’s market life centuries ago.

The Botermarkt, which translates to "Butter Market", is a historic square in Leiden that has been a central marketplace for centuries. Originally, it was the site where dairy products, especially butter, were traded. Over time, the market expanded to include a wide variety of goods, and today it hosts one of the best open-air markets in the Netherlands every Wednesday and Saturday. The lively market stretches along the scenic canals of Nieuwe Rijn, Vismarkt, and Botermarkt itself, offering fresh produce, local cheeses, traditional Dutch treats like herring and stroopwafels, and much more.

The Hooglandse Kerk is a Gothic church dating back to the XV century. The building has a quirky structure, indeed, the low nave does not match the transept. This is due to a series of misfortunes that led to the incompletion of the church. At the beginning, the church was a wooden chapel, which was ordered in 1314 by the Bishop of Utrecht. Then, in 1377, as the population and economic prosperity of Leiden called for a larger structure, construction began and the chapel was enlarged to the current structure. The work was finished in 1391 and hasn't really changed since then.

Leiden Castle, known as the Burcht van Leiden, lies in the old city center of Leiden and dates back to the 11th and 12th centuries. The hill on which the castle was built is an artificial one and was raised during various periods of time up to 9 meters above the surrounding landscape. It is 20-metre high and was built in order to protect the city during the Middle Age. The citadel provided with an excellent view of the city and its surroundings so that threats could be detected and quickly counter-attacked. Today, the castle is the symbol of Leiden and you can't leave the city without climbing up there.

After exploring the Burcht van Leiden and taking in all the historical insights offered at this ancient fortress, continue your journey north along the picturesque Oude Rijn canal. This scenic stretch is lined with beautiful mansions that showcase classic Dutch architecture, adding elegance to the canal’s edges. Charming traditional bridges, especially the iconic Bostelbrug near the point where the Oude Rijn meets the Nieuwe Rijn, enhance the area’s unique atmosphere. Walking along this peaceful waterway, you’ll experience a perfect blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty that truly captures the spirit of Leiden.

Ending the tour, be sure to visit the impressive Catharinabrug (Catherine’s Bridge), a striking modern structure that has recently been renovated. This award-winning S-shaped bridge is located in one of Leiden’s rapidly developing commercial districts and serves as a vital link for pedestrians and cyclists. It gracefully spans the Rijn River right after the point where the Oude Rijn and Nieuwe Rijn branches meet, offering stunning views of the waterways below.

Travel Essentials

GETTING THERE

Leiden is very well connected by train, making it easy to reach from several major Dutch cities. From Amsterdam, trains run frequently — every 5 to 10 minutes — and the journey takes about 30 minutes. Tickets typically cost between 9 and 10 EUR. If you’re coming from The Hague, the trip is even quicker, lasting just around 12 minutes, with fares usually between 3 and 4 EUR. From Rotterdam, expect a travel time of about 30 minutes, with ticket prices around 7 to 8 EUR. Trains are comfortable and reliable, making them a popular choice for both locals and tourists.

Several regional and local bus routes serve Leiden, linking it to nearby towns and cities for easy day trips or connections. For travelers coming from further away, FlixBus offers long-distance bus services to Leiden from various European cities, providing a budget-friendly alternative to trains or flying. Bus travel can be a convenient way to reach Leiden while enjoying scenic views along the way.

Leiden is easily accessible by car via the A4 and A44 highways, connecting it to the broader Dutch road network. However, if you plan to drive into the city center, be aware of the “milieu zone” (environmental zone), which restricts certain older or more polluting vehicles and may impose charges to reduce air pollution. Parking in the city center can also be limited and expensive, so it’s worth researching parking options ahead of time.

EATING THERE

- Paco Ciao: Paco Ciao is our go-to spot for any time of day. Open all day, it offers tasty dishes in a relaxed, friendly setting. Prices range from about 10-18 EUR for main dishes.
- Tootje: A cozy, casual place ideal for lunch. Tootje serves fresh and flavorful dishes, perfect for a relaxed meal or a quick stop. Prices typically range from 10 to 15 EUR, offering good value in a friendly setting.
- ’t Pannenkoekenhuysje Oudt Leyden: For a true Dutch experience, this charming spot serves traditional sweet and savory pancakes. The warm, inviting atmosphere makes it a lovely place to enjoy a leisurely meal, with pancakes priced around 10-15 EUR.
- Petit Café Anne et Fred: A laid-back café serving light meals and drinks, ideal for a casual lunch or early evening bite. Most dishes and snacks are priced between 12 and 20 EUR, making it a friendly spot to relax.
- Café Visscher: A stylish brasserie serving French-inspired dishes with a modern touch. Awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand for excellent quality and value, their lunch menu is available around 45 EUR, making it a great choice for a special lunch meal.

- Rodos Good Taste Restaurant: This Greek restaurant is known for authentic flavors and generous portions. With mains priced from about 15 to 22 EUR, it’s a fantastic choice if you’re craving Mediterranean cuisine in Leiden.
- Catootje aan de Markt: Located right on the market square, this place offers a comfortable dining experience with a good selection of dishes. Main courses usually fall between 20 and 30 EUR, making it a great spot to enjoy a nice meal.
- Tabu: Tabu brings bold South American flavors to the city’s dining scene. Their main dishes generally cost between 15 and 25 EUR, offering a vibrant and tasty alternative for those looking for something a bit different.
- In Den Doofpot: For classic Dutch dishes served in a cozy and traditional setting, In Den Doofpot is a go-to. Expect meals priced around 18-25 EUR, perfect for a hearty, comforting dinner.

-  Leidsche Koek: Don’t miss trying the local cookie, a sweet treat that’s perfect for a snack on the go. Prices typically range from 2 to 4 EUR per cookie or small pack.
- Mamie Gourmande: Mamie Gourmande is a cozy French bakery in Leiden, offering fresh pastries, breads, and sweets. Prices are usually 2 to 5 EUR, perfect for a tasty French treat on the go.

- Chummy Coffee: Known for excellent coffee in a warm, inviting space. Coffees and light snacks usually cost between 3 and 6 EUR, great for a relaxed break.
- I Scream Coffee: A cozy spot known for strong, flavorful coffee and friendly service. Drinks usually cost between 3 and 5 EUR, perfect for a quality coffee break.
- Darras Coffee Roasters: This specialty coffee roaster offers fresh, high-quality brews, with prices between 3.5 and 6 EUR per cup. A must-visit for coffee lovers.
- Borgman & Borgman Coffee: A popular local favorite known for its quality coffee, with drinks mostly ranging from 3 to 6 EUR. Perfect for a casual coffee break.

FINAL THOUGHTS

As residents of The Hague, Leiden holds a truly special place in our hearts — a city we always look forward to visiting, especially when friends or family come to town. Its charming streets, vibrant atmosphere, and unique blend of history and culture never fail to captivate both first-time visitors and those who know it well. Leiden offers an authentic taste of Dutch life, from its picturesque canals to bustling markets and cozy cafés. It’s a place that perfectly captures the spirit and warmth of the Netherlands, making it a destination we’re happy to return to time and time again!

And now it's your turn to share your experience, thoughts and also tips to visit this Dutch jewel. Have you already visited Leiden? Which other attractions would you recommend? We look forward to reading your comments in the section below.

Tags: Netherlands