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A Weekend Road Trip to Northern Bavaria (Part 1) - Bamberg

Thomas had recently moved to Frankfurt and was exploring the nearby towns while I had gone to Brazil after more than 2 years of Europe without going back. As I returned to Portugal two weeks before the start of my term at university, I had time to visit him in Germany for the first time.

 

Actually, Frankfurt was the first city I have ever been in Europe since my flight from Brazil landed there, however, I was not really keen on visiting it back then and got a bus to Berlin directly instead. But now I had the chance to get to know around. Nonetheless, as Thomas had some days off to spend, he planned a visit to some Romantic towns in Northern Bavaria.

 

We found some cheap deals of car rentals in Frankfurt Airport agencies and decided to have more flexibility this time and try the famous German highways. However, when we got to the rental company there was all those insurance costs to reduce the bail amount that were not included in the rate, so the final value was almost double of what we had planned. But oh well, at least we would be covered for anything happening with the car.


Bamberg - the Franconian Rome (UNESCO heritage)

General information

Anyway, once with the car, we left off to our first destination: Bamberg. Located in the North part of Bavaria, it is a good 2 hours and a half drive from Frankfurt, but as there is no toll and the roads in Germany are very well conserved, it was a pleasing experience. In fact, a large part of Bamberg has been declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site due to the early medieval plan of the town and its several well-preserved ecclesiastical and secular buildings dating back to the medieval period.

History

The city was officially founded in 973 but grew in importance only after King Heinrich II, the former Duke of Bavaria, made Bamberg the seat of a bishopric in 1007 as an effort to unburden the neighbor Diocese of Würzburg.

Street in the old town
Street in the old town
Thomas posing in one of the many cute little streets
Thomas posing in one of the many cute little streets

Streets and details of the architecture of the city
Streets and details of the architecture of the city


8 things to do in Bamberg

1. Walk on the Geyerswöthsteg and take a photo of the ALTES RATHAUS (OLD TOWN HALL)

 

Kick off the day at the Geyerswörthsteg, a pedestrian bridge where you can witness the memorable postcard of Bamberg: the southern facade of the Altes Rathaus. If you look upstream you can see the watermills used first for the production of flour and vegetable oils but later on to produce energy for some industries.

2. Have a closer look at the facade of The Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall)

 

The Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) of Bamberg is maybe the most famous postcard of Bamberg. Connecting the hillside Episcopal part of the city and the Island District, a part of town surrounded by river Regnitz where the old "bourgeois" merchant town flourished, the Rathaus is a very peculiar building with an also peculiar history.

 

According to a legend, the citizens demanded that the bishop of Bamberg granted them a portion of land for the construction of the town hall but the bishop prince, afraid of having another rising political power to compete with him, denied the land donation. This did not stop the townsfolks to get their wish done, they stuck pillars in the middle of the river and created an artificial island, on which they were able to build the desired town hall.

 

If this story is true or not we can not tell for sure, but what can not be denied is the wonder of this iconic building. Its half-timbered facet contrasts with the frescoes of its laterals depicting allegorical scenes in trompe-l'oeil, a typical illusionist painting technique giving a 3D impression for the motifs designed during the XVIII century by Johann Anwander. Pay attention to an intriguing detail which draws the attention of tourists: the leg of a cherub protruding out of the wall as a sculpture, reinforcing the 3D illusion.

The Altes Rathaus and its beautiful facade
The Altes Rathaus and its beautiful facade
Thomas posing in front of this iconic building
Thomas posing in front of this iconic building

View from the Altes Rathaus on the Little Venice. Stunning!
View from the Altes Rathaus on the Little Venice. Stunning!

3. Push the doors of Saint-Martin Church

 

Now, cross the river and head to the other side of the city until you reach the Church Saint-Martin, the only Baroque church in Bamberg. Built in the heart of the bourgeois part of the city, it is closely linked to the Jesuits once it was originally supposed to be the church of the Jesuits College.

4. Head to MaximiliansPLATZ

 

Continuing to explore this part of Bamberg once dominated by the bourgeoisie, go to Maximiliansplatz, the most important square of the town where the new town hall is located. The square is framed by baroque buildings and hosts different markets throughout the year, including the well-known Christmas Market.

The facade of the Saint-Martin Church
The facade of the Saint-Martin Church
Strolling around the old town of Bamberg
Strolling around the old town of Bamberg

5. Push the doors of Bamberg Cathedral

 

Now, go back to the other side of the town, cross the river and head up to Bamberg Cathedral. Like Rome, Bamberg was built over 7 hills and each one is crowned by a different church. The most famous one being the Cathedral Hill, where the Cathedral of Bamberg has been originally founded in 1002. From there on, it has collapsed and rebuilt a few times and, due to the long construction process, it shows several architectural styles, particularly the Romanesque and Gothic. Furthermore, this Cathedral holds the only papal grave in Germany (all the other ones are located in France or in Italy).

7. Enter the courtyard of The Alte Hofhaltung

 

The Alte Hofhaltung, which is a historical complex of residential and commercial buildings of the episcopal court, started being built in the XV century and presents a remarkable Renaissance facade and a romantic courtyard framed by Gothic half-timbered buildings. You can enter this courtyard through a interesting gate showing the Mother of God in the center and in front of a model of the Bamberg Cathedral at that time which is held by the Emperor Heinrich II and his wife Kuningunde. They are flanked by saints and famous bishops. The whole set is framed by the figures of lying man and woman which represent the local rivers Main and Regnitz respectively.

The Alte Hofhaltung
The Alte Hofhaltung
Bamberg Cathedral
Bamberg Cathedral
Door on the side of the cathedral
Door on the side of the cathedral

7. Enjoy the unique architecture of The Neue Residenz and relax in its garden

 

Also located nearby the Cathedral of Bamberg and the Alte Hofhaltung, lays the Neue Residenz, a building which served as residence of the bishops princes of Bamberg and features the Rosengarten, a beautiful garden with 4.500 roses and a panoramic view on the old-town (download a leaflet about the city here).

The beautiful facade of the Neue Residenz
The beautiful facade of the Neue Residenz
The garden with roses and statues
The garden with roses and statues
View of the city from the garden of the Neue Residenz
View of the city from the garden of the Neue Residenz

8. Walk along the river banks and enjoy the Klein Venedig (Little Venice)

 

To finish this walking tour, head down to the river banks where you can get a nice view of Klein Venedig (Little Venice), a part of the old-town comprising a line of half-timbered colorful houses located just alongside the margins of the Regnitz river.

The Klein Venedig (or Little Venice)
The Klein Venedig (or Little Venice)
Rafael posing in front of the Altes Rathaus
Rafael posing in front of the Altes Rathaus
Gondola riding down the river near Little Venice
Gondola riding down the river near Little Venice

What went wrong

Bamberg is the city of beer with evidences of having a brewery dating back to 1122, when Bishop Otto I allowed brewing rights for the Benedictine Monks at St. Michael’s Monastery. Nowadays, there are 9 working breweries within town, which produce around 50 different beers, including the famous smoked beer made from malt dried over an open flame. Unfortunately, we did not know about it and, as we had still to drive to Nuremberg, we couldn’t really taste it. But, by all means, don't make the same mistake and make sure to taste it at the historic smoked beer brewery Schlenkerla, in  the old-town part of Bamberg, directly beneath the Cathedral.


Another colorful narrow street
Another colorful narrow street

Stay tuned for the next stop of our weekend road trip through the mesmerizing region of Northern Bavaria. Discover our next destination that holds a sad yet impressive role during World War II (check it out here).


And now it's your turn to let us know your impressions, thoughts and also tips to visit this region of Germany and in particular the city of Bamberg. Have you already been to Bamberg? Which other attractions would you recommend to do there? We look forward reading your comments in the section below.


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